The Thar Desert, also known as the Great Indian Desert, became the door that led me to Jaisalmer. As I sat researching, the Golden City pulled me in. History, architecture, food, adventure - it ticked every box I had. I like to grow a little with every new place I visit.

The internet gave me enough to piece together an itinerary. The rest, I left to chance - that’s where the memorable moments usually live. Jaisalmer truly comes alive in winter. I skipped the December peak, when the city turns into a swarm of tourists buzzing around every monument, and chose mid-January instead. The weather had settled. The crowd had thinned. This was it. Khamma Ghani, Jaisalmer!

The Colour of Arrival

The golden tinge begins the moment I land at Jaisalmer Airport - in the light, the stone, the dust in the air.

The airport operates a taxi union, and unlike most cities, cabs here can only be booked through them. It feels like arm-twisting at first, until you realise the flip side: fixed fares, no haggling, no inflated rates for out-of-towners.

That said, INR 840/- for a 10–15 km ride to the city is a stretch. I could walk to the main road and find other options, but I eventually cave in.

Mukesh, my driver, tells me it is a thirty-minute ride to the hotel. The temperature is unusually warm - nothing like the biting Delhi cold I’d left behind just a couple of hours ago, as if someone has quietly flipped a weather switch. We get talking and Mukesh turns out to be as happy for the conversation as I am.

Tourism, he explains, is the backbone of Jaisalmer’s economy. And tourism here is at the mercy of the weather. A 4–5 month window is all they get before the sun and the heatwaves reclaim the city. Every rupee earned in that narrow season has to count.

It is a useful thing to hear early.

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India’s Only Living Fort

I check in, drop my bags, and head straight to Jaisalmer Fort.

I had planned to hire a scooty for local travel, but the hotel owner talks me out of it. His advise is that most places are walkable, and for anything farther, a three-wheeler would do just fine. The fort is a fifteen-minute walk away from my hotel.

Jaisalmer Fort is India’s only living fort. It doesn’t just stand there as a monument to the past - it breathes. Shops, hotels, homes, and temples all coexist within its ancient walls. It never fully closes, except for the Palace Museum.

The sheer scale of it stops you in your tracks. Even before you know its story, the fort draws you in on its own terms - its golden walls rising against the blue sky, the narrow lanes folding into one another, the air thick with something older than anything you can name.

The Fort has four gates: Akhai Pol, Suraj Pol, Ganesh Pol, and Hawa Pol. Each was designed with a specific purpose. Hawa Pol, for instance, was built to channel the wind and it works, offering a rare and welcome coolness even on warm days.

The entrance to Fort, labelled as Akhai Pol, is lively, lined with souvenir stalls and filled with the sound of Rajasthani folk singers. Their raw, unhurried music sets the tone before you’ve even stepped inside. Threading through narrow lanes and dodging the occasional motorbike, I make my way to the ticket counter for the Palace Museum - INR 200 for Indian nationals, and well worth it.

Having a guide is helpful here. History doesn’t announce itself; it needs someone to coax it out of the stonework. I make my way through low corridors and uneven stairs, catching glimpses of an era that feels both distant and oddly close. The highest point of the fort opens up to a sprawling view of the city - blue sky, strong wind and rooftops stretching out in every direction. The crowd is thick, and I find myself wishing, at moments, for just a sliver of silence.

There is no exact time that is sufficient to explore the Fort properly. I decide to take a break and come back later to visit the Jain Temples situated within the Fort Complex.

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Kachori, Sweet Lassi and a heartful meal

By the time I finish at the fort, I realize I haven’t eaten all day.

I know exactly where I want to go. I go looking for Fateh Kachori - tucked into a corner of a lane near the fort, easy to miss if you don’t know to look for it. A small cart sits beside the Dr. Bhang shop, and on most days, there’s a 30–40 minute queue. I was lucky; I got mine in reasonable quick time.

The kachoris have a distinctly Rajasthani character - not bland, not aggressive, but layered. The tangy note is what sets them apart. Served with red and green chutney and a few green chillies, they are among the best I’ve had anywhere. A plate of two cost thirty-five rupees, a bargain in today’s time. The owner tells me I can pay only if I like them. It isn’t a marketing tactic. It is quiet confidence in something they had been making for years.

I wash it all down with a lassi from the Dr. Bhang shop. The non-adulterated version, as they call it, is cool and thick and exactly what the afternoon calls for. Street food in Jaisalmer, I am quickly learning, is not just delicious but also generous.

The sun is relentless, though, and my feet are beginning to remind me they exist. I head back to the hotel for a few hours of rest.

Gold at Dusk

The evening arrives cooler and calmer. I walk over to Gadisar Lake, barely a kilometre from the fort. There’s no entry fee, though boating is paid. The Indira Gandhi Canal feeds the lake year-round, keeping it full even as the desert stretches out around it.

The road leading up to the lake is lined with food stalls and carts, giving it the feel of a noisy picnic spot. The edges of the lake are a little untidy. I skip the boat ride and settle instead for the sunset.

The view is extraordinary. To top it further, I go to Tathastu Cafe - which sits above the lake with sweeping views and a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere. The food is nice but slightly on the pricier side. But with the sky turning orange and the lake catching the last of the light, I am not thinking about either.

I stay until dark, hoping to catch a musical performance at the lakeside. But on my way, I am told it has been cancelled today due to technical difficulties. Just one of those things. I have my dinner planned at Kaku the Cafe and instead decide to head there.

Dinner with a golden backdrop

Kaku the Café is about twenty minutes from the lake, on the edge of the city rather than within it. I have to admit that despite being popular, it is not the most easiest place to find. And not the most vibrantly situated as well.

But once you arrive, the setting does all the talking. The Jaisalmer Fort glows across the skyline, illuminated and immense, and it becomes the most extraordinary backdrop for a meal. The food is wonderful and I particularly enjoy the Lassi, which I have been gulping down at an alarming pace since the morning. The Rajasthani Thali here is good if you wish to give the cuisine a try.

Rewind and Reset

Back at the hotel, lying on the bed in the dark, I found myself replaying the day. A fort that made history feel immediate. A cart tucked in a lane serving kachoris with quiet pride. A lake turning gold at dusk. Conversations with strangers who had no reason to be warm but were. A dinner with a glowing fort for company.

In a single day, I had eaten well, listened to folk music in a medieval lane, watched the sun set over a desert lake, and learned a little more about a city - and, in some small way, about myself.

I go to sleep satisfied.

I had no idea what the next day was about to do to that feeling.

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“I will take that for you sir!”

Chamara is waiting patiently so that he can help us transport the luggage from our room to the taxi. It is 9:45 am and Shashi is right on time with his spic and span white sedan. I have been in Sri Lanka for three days, breathing clean air, meeting generous and kind people and experiencing hospitality of the highest order. I have already described my experience of Central Srilanka in the first part. It is now time to continue the journey and move to the South.

As I see cars and motorcycles zooming past us, I could not help but notice the different number plate system on the vehicles. Shashi breaks it down for me, graciously dealing with my endlessly curious personality. The Southern Expressway is replete with road signs of ‘Danger! Peacock Ahead’. Shashi keeps the speed in check as he explains how the expressway sees accidents because of peacock crossings.

The drive is so peaceful that it is impossible to not get consumed by it. I don't realize how 3 hours pass by as I sight the first view of the southern coastline. I bid goodbye to Shashi and settle in my BnB. I wait for the sun to cool down before leaving for a stroll on the Unawatuna Beach, a 10-minute drive from our BnB.

Away from the chaos - Unawatuna

The sand has cooled down. As I move closer, the cool breeze is hitting my face. I don’t need any music because the sound of the waves is mellifluous. The sky is shade of orange and the sun is slowly being engulfed by the ocean. The water is clear and the surrounding palm trees make for a spectacular view.

I am enjoying sitting on the beach, disconnected from the world, adrift in deep thought. As it starts to get dark, the cabanas and shacks light up. I have had a refreshing dip and am taking a stroll on the beach as I see the fresh stack of fish getting dumped over ice and being displayed in a decorative manner to lure tourists.

Though I am surrounded by plenty of dinner options, the Thaproban Beach Restaurant catches our eye. It has a stunning setup and a seating with close proximity to the beach. Talk about ambience and vibe! Kishore notices us conversing in Hindi. He tries speaking in Hindi but is not very fluent. He understands properly though. I am curious how. Apparently, he has been working in the hospitality sector for a long time and is well conversant with multiple languages. This could be a salesperson pulling a trick out of his bag but the small gesture brings a personal touch to our evening.

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Mapping Mirissa

I leave for Mirissa the next day. It’s a 45 minute drive from Unawatuna. While locking my itinerary, I decided to keep Unawatuna as the base for the Southern coast expedition. Galle, Mirissa, Ahangama and Welligama are all within an hour distance from Unawatuna. Galle is just 15 minute away and has frequent trains running to Colombo.

Our first destination in Mirissa is the Coconut Tree Hill.

This place made it to my itinerary solely on social media hype. It is picturesque, no doubt. Yes, you will get gram worthy pictures as well. But that is it. It will not captivate you. And even for pictures, you will have to be there at the right time. Because remember when I said, there is a content creator in everyone. The place gets crowded quickly and there is a cat and mouse chase happening to get the desired shot. Early morning is the ideal time and if your are going for just pictures you should aim for that.

I don’t spend more than 15 minutes at the Tree Hill. I have already researched for lunch options in Mirissa and make a quick walk to Petti Petti. Not very far from the Tree Hill. The view here is stunning but I am more excited about the food. And it more than lives up to my expectations.

The Pizza is delicious. The base is extremely soft, melting effortlessly in my mouth. It is so good that my stomach is full but my heart craves more. Even the other items I have - Pasta for example are lip-smacking. The vegetarian options are limited though. I find the place slightly on the pricier side than other places I have been to in Sri Lanka. But the food is absolutely worth it.

I am now itching to go to the Parrot Rock. This island rock offers a panoramic view of the Mirissa Beach, not to mention the gorgeous colours and shades of the sky if you go at the right time, which is during the sunset. I have to traverse through the ocean waters to reach the rock. The current is strong and going to the rock has suddenly turned into an unplanned adventure. The Rock in itself is a natural marvel. I don’t think I can ever get tired of the view. I was told it is a hidden gem but the crowd here suggests otherwise.

I am loving the Beach vibe. Or maybe its the Sri Lanka magic. I realize there is one thing common in the mountains and the beaches - their magnanimity. I can sit for hours just staring at them and admiring their vastness.

It is now time for some café-hopping and a new destination.

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The Cafe Paradise - Ahangama

Ahangama beach is not as populated as Mirissa or Unawatuna. But its cafes are always bustling. There are two in particular I am eager to try out. First is the Cafe UFO. This place is famous for its coffee.

For a coffee lover, UFO is a must-visit place. Espresso, Matcha, Cold Brew - the menu has variety and is packed with options. I try their Lavendar cold brew. It tastes bitter at first but the acquired taste is fantastic. I am in bliss. I also try their regular cold brew and it is delightful too.

They also have specialized food bowls, Waffles and Toasts. I have my dinner already planned and hence decide to skip. The folks running the place are enthusiastic and I have a short but enriching conversation about our shared love for coffee.

I take their leave and move to Hotel De Uncles for the night. The Karaoke night brings me here. But they also happen to have a breathtaking beach face sitting. I am looking to try something native and decide to give Kottu a try - a local dish prepared by chopping roti into tiny pieces and mixing it with vegetables and aromatic spices. Delicious and a must try!

As the cool wind splashes across my face while I have my drink, I notice song dedications being made. Friend to friend. Husband to wife. Boyfriend to girlfriend. Or between random acquaintance made on the vacation.

Before retiring for the night, we make one last stop - Piccadily Parlour. Can’t quit the day without the desert.

The Southern Coast feels less personal than the Central part. The vibe here is more touristy and I am missing the warmth and personal conversations. It is also a bit more chaotic. The Pick Me App, that has been been my trusted companion till now in Sri Lanka, does not work efficiently here. I am told its because of the taxi lobby but for a traveller, it is an inconvenience.

Rain curtails my plans for the next day. I had planned to explore Welligama today - a place famous for surfing. I am constrained by time but I hope to take surfing classes and give surfing a try when I come back next. Fortunately, the rain gods show mercy and I get few hours in the evening to sneak out of our BnB.

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Rain and unplanned adventures

The Jungle Beach is just a 15-20 minute drive away. The name pops up all types of imagination in my mind and I am excited to see what this place has to offer. I discover that this one of the hidden spots near Unawatuna and Galle. The route is clearly defined and has a calm about it.

The vehicles can go till a certain point. From there, it is a 20-minute trek. It is not a hike or a climb. But the walk is thrilling. I walk through the dense jungle with no human chatter. I can only hear the voice of my slippers rubbing against the muddy path and the echoes of the sounds of the birds. The air is fresh. My mind is thanking me for this.

The trek leads to a small beach and it is beautiful. The crowd here is negligible. I see a shack offering refreshments, hinting that people do turn up here but maybe rain has kept them away today. A group of people are taking their evening dip. It has started to get dark, mostly because of the grey clouds that have been hovering in the sky.

The starting point of the trek also leads to Rumasella Temple and Japanese Peace Pagoda.

My few hours of no-rain time are over. It starts to pelt again and I get drenched in the rain, just as I start to descend. This is not a passing shower and I am compelled to stay in our BnB for the night. I go to enquire about dinner and happen to meet Tushar and Kaveri, the owners of the property.

We talk about everything from cricket to Bollywood. I am fascinated by how much Tushar knows about India. He tells me he is a big Madhuri and Amitabh fan and has a big smile plastered on his face as shares his love for Hindi movies of the 80’s and 90’s. By now, I have come to appreciate the deep ties between the two nations. We have a long and enriching conversation. He even helps me with tomorrow’s ride. It is time to move to our last destination and probably the most exciting one. You’ll soon find out why.

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Glorious Galle

It is my last day in Sri Lanka. I am in Galle, a place famous for its architecture and history. As I traverse through the narrow lanes to reach my Hotel, I come across a cozy household. A Red Tuk Tuk is parked in the courtyard. I see a kid sitting in the garden. He must be around 14-15 years old.

“Whose Tuk Tuk?”, I politely enquire.

“It's my father's”, he replies.

I ask because I was looking for a ride to the Galle Fort. I don’t sight his father around. So, I smile and that is the end of the conversation.

I check-in and dump my luggage. I am passing through the same lane and heading out to the main road. This time, I notice a girl sitting in the courtyard. I acknowledge her and continue looking for my ride. After 5 minutes or so, a person comes running asking me if I need a Tuk Tuk. He happens to be the owner of the house I had passed by. His son must have told him that I was enquiring about the Tuk Tuk.

Rajesh is bustling with enthusiasm when he sees me. He tells me he owns the Tuk Tuk. A red colour one parked stylishly in one corner of the garden cum courtyard of his house. He asks us to wait while he gets ready. Meanwhile, he introduces us to his children and also share stories about other travelers.

His red tuk tuk is not like any other. Rajesh has modified and carved a sunroof, which he advertises to attract tourists and travelers. He happily obliges for pictures, sometimes even compels, all to delight the tourists and popularize the offering. While it looks like a gimmick at first, I do enjoy the ride standing and peeking out of the sun roof. It is a different experience.

The Fort is just 10 minutes away. He drops us the entrance. The guides start hovering around us with their tour packages and discounts. I give them a pass. I take the stairs and start my fort expedition. The place feels untouched by time.

On one side, is the Indian Ocean. The other side hosts the Clock Tower. And in the middle sits the Galle International Stadium. I have seen people catching a glimpse of the cricket matches from the fort. The view of the stadium from the fort is an “absolute treat”.

The Galle Fort Clock Tower stands as a symbol of gratitude and benevolence. It was built through public subscriptions by the people of Galle to honor Dr. Peter Daniel Anthonisz, a renowned local doctor and Surgeon.

The design was created by John Henry Gues Landon, and the clock was donated by Mudaliyar Samson de Abrew Rajapakse, a grateful patient of Dr. Anthonisz.

Galle has kept it's history and culture intact. It is a great city for enthusiasts of history, architecture and nature. My next stop is Peddler's Street for lunch. The ancient Dutch architecture here feels like a warm hug. The sky is gloriously blue in Galle but the temperature is soaring.

The Peddler's Street is bustling with tourists. Mostly foreign. Not to forget the locals, who have gathered in large numbers at the lighthouse to watch the sunset. The clouds are playing a spoilsport but the setting is a scenery we used to draw in our colour books. When nature turns up, there are very few things that can match it's beauty.

Some kids are engaged in kite flying competition. Under a tree shade, one Popcorn and candy vendor have gathered a decent audience. It is crowded but the vibe is celebratory.

I retire for the night as I have an early morning train to Colombo. I had already informed Rajesh and he is outside my hotel before time in the morning. The station is 10 minutes away. When we reach, I get down and my eyes are set on the sky. It looks beautiful. And then I sight the Rainbow. I guess Galle had one last surprise planned for us.

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Cricket in the Island Nation

If you don’t know this about me yet, cricket is an integral part of my life. I am really keen about the history of the game and religiously spend time researching and writing about it. I also run a passion project by the name Cricket Field Chronicles and if you share the passion, you can read my work here.

In my quest for the same, I like to visit places which enlighten me about it. The Galle cricket stadium has been on my bucket list for quite some time. It is one those stadiums which is not just picturesque but also holds a lot of history and landmark cricket moments. For instance, Muttiah Muralidharan picked his 800th wicket on this very ground while playing the final test match of his career.

I am not allowed entry into the stadium and understandably so. Why would they let a random tourist enter the stadium? I am determined though. I beg and plead. I tell them I am from India and it is important for me to see the stadium. It is important. I have dreamt of it for so long. The administrator sees through my pleadings. He allows me a quick 5-minute visit, albeit with a guard present.

I drop my backpack and run towards the entrance. A small, narrow and dimly lit path leads to the ground. Picture the many back angle shots in a sports movie. Where a coach or a player is exiting a tunnel into the stadium. It feels exactly like that. Only that I have the ground empty and no arousing cheers of my name.

I enter the ground. There is a knee-level fence guarding the ground. For a change, it is good to see a stadium that doesn’t feel like jail. That doesn’t create boundaries between the players and the viewers. No cricket is happening but I can only feel and imagine the thrill of watching a Test match here in such close proximity and with a UNESCO World Heritage in the background.

The stadium hosted its first test in 1998. No major alteration could be done to the stadium at it stands in the vicinity of a UNESCO World heritage site. The stadium was terribly damaged during the 2004 Tsunami and was rebuilt with the help of Surrey Cricket Club and cricketers Shane Warne and Ian Botham.

Even with all the new additions, it remains a small-capacity stadium. But I am not complaining. I like to watch my cricket in peace, without the hullaballoo and in company of people who understand the game. Galle International Stadium checks them all.

My love for cricket history takes me to the Sri Lanka Cricket Museum in Colombo. It is my first time visiting a cricket museum. And this is what I saw:

I hope to see a cricket museum in India one day. Given our almost 100-year-old rich history, it is a disappointment we still don’t have a place that celebrates our legacy the cricketers and their achievements.

Goodbye, Srilanka! I will be back.

I am sitting in the waiting area of the Bandaranaike International Airport. There is a certain sense of satisfaction that I was able to plan this whole itinerary on my own. No agent, planner or guide. Naturally, I have my friends to thank. And the many travel bloggers and content creators who share authentic information. One of the many perks of living in the social media era.

Could I have done better? Maybe. I missed going to Kandy and Sigiriya. Couldn't fit in Dikwella, Hiriketiya and Welligama in the itinerary. The weather forbid us from experiencing whale watching in Mirissa. I start to feel that I have left more than what I have covered. But that's Srilanka for you. It demands your time and complete attention.

I know I will be back someday. To complete what I left. And to revisit what I enjoyed and became a part of me. Till then, Ayubowan!

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Thank you for reading 😃

This brings me to the end of a long and detailed travel essay series. It is first of a kind I am trying, taking you, the reader, on the journey through Sri Lanka with me.

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I value your feedback, thoughts and comments. I will be back with a new destination and many more stories.

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Devprayag: The Holy Confluence

We have our departure scheduled from Delhi at 9 pm. Our plan is to reach Devprayag in Uttarakhand in time to catch the sunrise. But we are running an hour late. The Sangam Ghat at Devprayag is the holy confluence where the sediment-laden Alaknanda meets the turbulent Bhagirathi and thereafter flows as the Ganga.

After a 15-minute walk, across the bridge, crawling through the narrow lanes and dodging the occasional vehicle, I reach the Ghat where I take the holy dip. The significance of the formation stuns me.

A loudspeaker blares out announcements for the devotees to take precautions while taking the dip. There is a cluster of devotees at the Ghat - some taking the dip, some getting clicked, while others are collecting the holy Ganga Jal.

The twisty roads and sharp bends have left most of us sleep deprived. We stop again, this time to offer prayers at the Dhari Devi Temple. Goddess Dhari Devi is regarded as the protector of Char Dham - Kedarnath, Badrinath, Gangotri and Yamunotri. It's a 30-minute walk to temple, slightly more challenging than Devprayag.

The clock strikes 11. Sahil informs us that we will not be making any more halts and will tread straight for our destination. It takes us another 4 hours to witness the scenic views of the Chopta Valley. The roads are narrow and I understand why only cars, shared cabs and small tempo are allowed on this route.

Sahil is our trip captain. He takes turn to allot us our tents as we reach the camp site. The rest of the evening is spent in trek briefings, dinner and mingling with the group members.

Living in tents with complete strangers, limited resources and make-shift arrangements. This is as much a life lesson as preparation for a trek. You start seeing value in things which we tend to ignore in our abundance-filled lifestyle. Every drop of water is crucial, discarding waste responsibly, using electricity judiciously. And the most important - no one is coming to do anything for you. Be independent!

An Early Start

It's 6 am. A loud, animated voice echoes “Breakfast lag gaya hai. Jaldi aa jaao”. Rahul is up and running to ensure we are on time. It is cold and the blanket feels like a warm hug. I take some time but finally manage to get out of the bed. I unzip the doors of my tent, peek out while rubbing my eyes, and treat myself with the lush green valleys and snow-capped mountains of the Chopta valley. It is quieter than what I am used to but not enough to make my peace.

Rahul is one of the camp in-charges. He is responsible for everyone making it to the food table on time. I grasp a cup for the tea as I make my way to the dining tent. I couldn't stop at one cup. The blanket has found it's replacement. To go with it, Poha is served. Naman joins me.

Naman is my tent-mate. He hails from Jaipur but is working in Gurgaon. A true corporate at heart, he is making sure that his Friday-Saturday-Sunday is purposeful. As we are on the cusp of finishing our breakfast, we realize that a charging point has been freed up.

There are no separate charging points in the tents. The dining tent houses an electrical hub with multiple charging ports. The electricity supply is managed through solar panels and is hence regulated. The camp is a breathing example of “being close to the nature.”

I put my phone on charge and Naman follows. I am taking time to pack so that I don't leave any necessary stuff. This has been one of my learnings from the previous treks.

“Spend time in packing so that you sweat less on the trek.”

With bag packed, energy fueled and Ray Bans annexed to the eyes, I join the fellow trekkers who are indulging in a photo session. I am told we have to book a shared taxi to transport ourselves to the trek starting point. The sharing taxis are available at Baniyakund, which is a good 15-minute walk from our camp.

Since we are on time, we get the taxi in a jiffy. The driver tells us “ Rs 500 per taxi”. A shared taxi can accommodate 10 people. We get in and set our journey in motion. It is a scenic 15-minute drive to the starting point. We get down and slowly disperse in look out for trek gears, most important being the trek pole.

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A Spiritual Heaven

There is a rush of people who will be trekking to the Tungnath Temple (and maybe Chandrashila Peak). It is still fewer than what I had expected. Tungnath during May-October is insanely crowded. This is the period when the temple is open for prayers.

I get hold of my trek pole and patiently wait for the others. But the crowd is increasing by every minute. It has increased by almost 25% in 15-odd minutes. Naman, Avani, Sahil and I decide to ditch the group photo and start moving. Avani is a professor of Botany. She is on the quest of completing the Panch Kedar Yatra, having already been to Kedarnath.

It's 8:22 am. We enter the gate with the chant of ‘Har Har Mahadev’. The energy is high and I am feeling positive begining the ascent. The trail is swamped with trekkers and devotees in the initial metres. As we keep moving, it starts to spread out.

After a hike of 300 metres, we take a break to gather our breaths. There is a small crowd building around a temporary drinks stall where a person is selling the famous local Buransh sharbat. I skip and instead have my Electrolyte-loaded water.

Our early start is allowing us to stop and click pictures wherever the background is pretty. The trail is getting picturesque with every passing distance. The shining sun amidst the dense white clouds in a pitch-blue sky resembles the many desktop and mobile wallpapers.

Just when I am getting lost in the beauty and divinity of the trail, I hear trekkers playing loud music. Loud to the extent where it disturbs the tranquility of the nature. It is irritating but the only option I have is to keep moving.

Meanwhile, members from our group have caught up and are visible one by one. I see people taking shortcuts and endangering their life. Shortcuts, I am later told, also spoil the beauty of the valley and are being closed by the forest department.

I am not quick, but maintain a decent speed. The path is rocky but well defined. I am seperated from Naman, Sahil and Avani but I find other members from our group. We are motivating each other as the adrenaline is starting to run dry. I am taking frequent breaks now but being in the vicinity of the temple keeps me moving.

At around 11 am, I reach the temple. The Tungnath Temple is one of the Panch Kedars, others being Kedarnath, Rudranath, Kalpeshwar and Madmaheshwar. The Panch Kedar temples are highly revered by the devotees of Lord Shiva. In terms of the altitude, the Tungnath Mahadev Temple is the highest amongst the Panch Kedar and also the World's highest Shiva Temple.

There is a queue at the temple. It takes me another hour to reach the temple and offer prayers. It is truly a divine experience and brings me so much peace. I spend some more time at the temple, observing the devotees offer their prayers and soaking in the magic. I feel blessed that I was able to take this pilgrimage.

The weather has been kind. But it starts to shift gears as I see patches of dark clouds hovering in the sky. This puts me in two minds about continuing ahead.

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Chandrashila: Defying Gravity

The Chandrashila Peak is another 1-2 km hike from the temple. But the climb is steep and challenging. I wait for a while for the weather to get clear. Meanwhile, I get myself a maggi, which has now become a ritual whenever I am traveling to the mountains.

Just as I see the sun eclipsing out behind the clouds, I decide it's now or never. With one sight on the time and other on the weather, I begin the ascent towards Chandrashila. According to one legend, Chandrashila Peak is the place where Lord Rama meditated after defeating Ravana.

The Chandrashila trail is slightly risky, with a deep gorge on one side without any protection. Even though I have prepared myself mentally, I realize I will have to challenge my body if I am to summit it. I feel exhausted. But I am not ready to give up yet.

The Tungnath Temple is at an altitude of 11,000 feet and I will be climbing another 1000 feet almost. The initial few metres are easy, like a little warm-up. Once I am past that section, I see an uphill incline leading all the way up to the peak. This is the first time my mind is unsure if I will be able to do this.

I don't stop. The winds get extreme and all I can hear is a little chatter and the sound of the wind swishing. Every step feels heavy. With the altitude gain, the oxygen is getting thinner. But the ‘lakshya’ is clearly visible.

As I am waiting to get my breath back, Mr. X walks over to me. We start talking and he tells me that I will be able to climb the mountain. He tells me he has done it before and it is not as hard as it is looks. I don't have any energy bars left but his encouraging words are more than helpful.

The last few meters, I am dragging myself towards the summit. Slowly and steadily. My heart is pumping blood at an unbelievable pace. The wind hitting my face feels good but the never-ending trail is testing my patience. Huge climbs through undefined paths and rocky terrain.

It is 2 pm. I feel a pang of thrill realizing I have made it to the summit. Now when I look back, if the climb wasn’t this challenging, it wouldn’t have brought me the same level of satisfaction which it did when I reached the peak top.

I take a moment to soak in the view. I am surrounded by nothing but just mountains. I have always felt some kind of energy in the mountains. Their is comfort in their silence.

Climbing a mountain helps me conquer doubts. The fact I am on my own relieves me of my insecurities, provides me perspective and most importantly, allows me to believe in myself. I had forgotten this feeling. To be myself. That whatever come may, I can do it. This feeling is a good one and I will never want it to go.

There is a small temple at the beginning of the ridge. I offer prayers and then move to the edge of the peak.

It is slightly crowded. There is hardly anyone who is not taking a picture or is not getting clicked. I really want to sit down and switch off my mind for sometime. But I realize it’s not possible. I soak every second of the moment.

This feeling is one of those things you cannot take away from me.

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Rain, Hailstorm and the Descend

The sun has stopped playing hide and seek and the rain looks imminent. I start my descend, hoping to get down the muddy incline before it gets slippery and potentially dangerous. I meet climbers at regular intervals, asking me how far is the summit. I motivate them, just like I was by Mr. X.

As I am about to reach the Tungnath temple, it starts to pelt down. I take shelter in one of the shops at the temple premises. Sensing this is not a passing shower, I decide not to wait anymore and continue my descend. I secure my phone in a plastic bag and cover three-fourth of myself in a yellow raincoat.

The rain gets heavier. I see people slipping and hurting themselves. I am moving slowly, each step placed with care and precision, sometimes even sideways to ensure balance is not lost. But I was yet to face my real challenge.

It is not water but hails falling from the sky. The temperature has dipped as well. It is freezing cold, to the extent I can’t feel my hands. I keep switching the trek pole between my hands after every few seconds. These few minutes are tough but going out of my comfort zone pacifies me. The experience is etched in my memory. I see a mother ascending with her raincoat covered child on her shoulders. The sight gives me more chills than the weather.

Despite the delays, I am on time with the descend. I have run out of water when I meet Mrs. S. She helps me refuel, with water, nuts and a Kit-Kat. She is a member of our group but we haven’t really interacted much. The generosity shines brighter than the sun at the moment.

It is amazing how quickly the weather changes in the mountains. One moment it was raining hails, and now the sun has painted the valley orangish with confident brush strokes.

I complete the journey around 6:30 pm. Some group members have descended earlier and are waiting for us to go back to the camp. We are all exhausted but I realize that being in a group is energizing. I have my dinner and we have a small bonfire session before I call quits on what has been a fulfilling day.

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Deoriatal: Pushing Beyond the Limits

The new dawn brings with itself a new challenge, a new trek. We check-out and move to Sari, which is the starting point for Deoriatal. It is a 3-3.5 km trek that leads to a lake nestled in a forest surrounded by the majestic Himalayan peaks. Some of our group members decide to skip it, courtesy yesterday’s endeavor. I start the ascent at around 1 pm. The trail is mostly similar to Tungnath, though not as captivating.

My body is a bit sore from yesterday but I am not finding the climb tough. It takes me 2 hours to reach the Tal. There is a multi-tier entry fees, with concessions available to students and people below 18 years. At the Tal, I see clouds playing a spoilsport, having taken the snow-capped mountains within their ambit.

I am not really impressed with the scenery and the hike doesn’t feel worth it. This is an ideal location for camping but I am told that they banned it a few years ago, which doesn't come as a surprise.

While descending, we stop at a temple on the trail. We get to talk to and interact with the temple priest who enlightens us. I am also fortunate to have met people on this journey who have helped debunk myths and enhance my understanding about Spirituality and God.

I am going back, but not without memories, learnings and a re-energized spirit. And with a reassured belief that we are meant to keep moving, meet new people and try new things. This is the genesis of our existence.

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*Some of the people names have been changed for privacy reasons.

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The cleanliness is strikingly admirable. I am also impressed with the civic sense while our tickets get checked. A gentleman raises and offers his seat to me. He asks if I am from India. I answer in affirmative. The conversation then shifts to my itinerary for the next few days.

Preparing the itinerary was not easy. Sri Lanka offers a unique combination of mountains, beaches, waterfalls. Of history, culture and mythology. And adventure, calm and serene. This helped it in building a case for itself against other popular destinations like Maldives and Bali. But my research left me confused - for there is so much to see and do. I decided to take assistance.

My friends, Abhishek and Aakash, were of great help. Aakash is planning to visit the island nation and had a draft itinerary ready. Abhishek had toured Sri Lanka in December last year. So his word had the backing of experience. The internet also did its thing. I finally settled on this route:

Colombo - Nuwara Eliya - Ella - Unawatuna - Ahangama - Welligama - Mirissa - Galle - Colombo.

The Station Master informs me that the train is late. By an hour. Over the course of next seven days, I will realize that trains are usually late in Sri Lanka. I now get impatient listening to the honking and seeing trains come and go. The Colombo heat is also taking its toll. But then I meet Ravi. Ravi is 8-year-old, cute and is traveling to Kandy with his family.

We get chatting. His infectious smile comes as a breath of fresh air. He likes cricket but is too young to know any Sri Lankan players or understand the technicalities of the game. He understands English but his mother is answering on his behalf. Sometimes she adds her own points to the answer. This helps us converse.

Amidst the bustling chaos and my never-ending questions to Ravi, the sound of the horn reverberates, sending the waiting passengers in a frenzy. The Station Master confirms. The Train to Nanu Oya is here!

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Nuwara Eliya - Every Picture is a Postcard

Nanu Oya is the nearest station to reach Nuwara Eliya. A quaint little town nestled in the Central Province of Sri Lanka. The hill station is unapologetically beautiful, with the architecture of the buildings striking a strong resemblance to the English countryside. The colonial influence is hard to ignore. The crops and tea estates take up most of the real estate - making it look green. And by green, I mean GREEN. There is so much greenery in Nuwara Eliya that every picture clicked is a postcard.

The train is not just late. It is late by almost 4 hours. At Kandy, I bid goodbye to Ravi. I think he is tired of my inquisitiveness. But he smiles, the same infectious one, waves an enthusiastic goodbye and deboards. After a few hours, my mind, body and soul are on the verge of giving up. The journey has become too long and arduous. It is another 30 minute drive from the station to Magnolia Hideout, the BnB where I retire for the night.

The morning is cold and slow. I am excited to get on the road. In India, we grow up watching, reading and listening to the epic of Ramayana. It is even part of the school curriculum in some parts of the country. So my first stop in Nuwara Eliya, understandably, is the Seetha Amman Temple.

The temple is dedicated to Goddess Sita and is said to be the Ashok Vatika, as is mentioned in the Ramayana, where Lord Hanuman meets Goddess Sita, while she was held in captive by the Ravana.

I offer prayers, not just for myself, but for the whole family. The priest chants their name, without gathering a sweat on the number. This is a first for me, anywhere in the world.

After the divine experience, I am enroute Gregory Lake. It's beauty is magnified by the clear blue sky and the bright sunshine that reflects in the water akin to glass. It is an artificial lake but I am amazed by it's maintenance and upkeep.

In my attempt to experience the beauty up and close, I decide to take the speed boat ride. Man, it was adrenaline pumping stuff. My heart raced and stopped every time the driver took steep turns, all while maintaining high speed. There are many water sport activities around the lake, but for me, this is the end of it.

I leave but not without planning to come back, for an evening cycling stroll at the lake.

I move on to my next adventure. A different one albeit. The Lover's Leap Waterfall. I don’t know the story behind the name. And I was so caught-up in traveling that I forgot to enquire. It’s a little off-beat and does not get many visitors. Off-beat travel is my thing and this fit the bill.

The way to the falls involves a hike of around 500 m, across the tea plantations. Easy and incredibly scenic. It's so calm that you can hear the sound the falls throughout. The setting is almost cinematic, with cloud formations, mist and a panoramic view of the town uphill. The fall itself is nothing extraordinary though. But as the cliche goes:

“The journey is more beautiful than the destination”

While in Nuwara Eliya, food is never a problem. The Ambaal’s restaurant has got us covered with the authentic South Indian food. Their Sambhar is delicious and worth salivating. One of the best I have had. The service is lacklustre but the food makes me overlook that as I end up visiting it multiple times. Of course, being just a few minutes away from my stay helps.

I decide to skip the common tourist destinations, like the Botanical Garden. Not only are they exorbitantly priced (3500 LKR per person), there is nothing special that attracts me. I have one day and I realize I have to pick and prioritize.

What attracts me though, is the Nuwara Eliya Post office. The red brick-themed colonial style architecture is eye-pleasing. I ask Dilshan if we can stop here for a while. Dilshan is the Tuk-Tuk driver who is taking responsibility of my sight-seeing in Nuwara Eliya.

We take a 5-minute halt. I get to know it is one of the most oldest Post Offices in Sri Lanka. For the lovers of nostalgia and if you happen to be from the generation that value writing letters, you can buy post stamps and send postcards.

There is more to explore in Nuwara Eliya. Ramboda falls. Adam’s Peak. The paucity of time is not allowing me to go beyond. My time here is up as I have my train booked to Ella. It is time to take the most scenic train ride in Asia - the Ella Odyssey.

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The Ella Odyssey

Backpack Chronicles

The Odyssey in Ella

Table of Contents…

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a year ago · Lakshit

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Effortlessly Charming ‘Ella’

Written as Ella and pronounced as ‘Elle’, I am corrected as I set foot in this ‘hip’ land. The tuk-tuk drivers are engaged in the battle of ‘vocals’ at the railway station, looking to one up the other, and convince the tourists to commute with them. As is the case mostly, the one with better negotiation skills wins.

The weather in Ella is slightly notorious - the days are sunny and it starts pelting just after the lunch hits the human body. It’s less colder than Nuwara Eliya though.

I don’t waste any time and get straight to café exploration. The crowd is not much - distributed with efficacy across the eating places. After menu-checking, I settle on Cafe UFO for the night.

In the morning, Chamara tells me we are going to the famous Nine-Arch Bridge - a protractor-shaped railway bridge standing on nine pillars surrounded by thick flora on both sides. Chamara will be doing what Dilshan did in Nuwara Eliya. He is based out of Kithal Ella, a small village adjoining Ella. The attraction for which the village is famous is the Kithal Ella Waterfall.

Chamara stays in Ella though. He runs a homestay by the name of Ella Sunrise View, a newly renovated accommodation. The single-room homestay is cute and cozy, offering breathtaking views of the Kithal Ella Fall and the Ella Rock.

The view makes it exceptional. But the real charm is Chamara. He has his own Tuk-Tuk in which he offers his guests special sightseeing packages. This is a juicy package. I didn’t know this when I booked with him.

You must have come across pictures or reels on social media, of people posing while hanging out of the train as it passes through the bridge. The Nine-arch Bridge for you. It is placed between Ella and Demodara Railway station and can also be visited if you are doing the train journey after Ella.

But I get down at Ella. I take a 30-minute road trip and a 15-minute walk to reach the bridge. The bridge is more than 100-years-old and has stood the test of time. It also stands as a testament to the colonial-era construction. There are multiple points from where you can view the passing of the train on the bridge. Chamara leads us all the way down to the bridge. He even obliges for pictures, happily.

I am no Harry Potter fan. But I am told that the sight of train passing across the bridge has a connection with the immensely popular fiction novel. It looks scenic, straight out of a children's story book.

I stand admiring the construction. To be able to conceive, innovate and execute, even a century ago - marvelous! The sun has reached over our heads and we are on the move again.

Chamara is a man of few words. But he understands quickly. I can see he is trying to go over and above to make us feel comfortable. The hospitality and kindness has stayed with me. It usually does.

We are now on our way to the Ravana Pool Club. I ask Chamara about the prices, but he is unsure. I reach and enquire. The Pool Club entry is priced at 19,500 LKR for two. And you get food worth 4,500 LKR in this deal. Not bad, honestly.

I am here for the iconic view of the Ella Rock and Little Adam’s Peak, which no other places offers better. The place is buzzing with palpable energy in the evening. I would have love to spent more time here.

My next stop is the Ravana Falls. No hike. No walk. The fall can be sighted from the passing road and can be easily visited. It is the most crowded attraction I have visited in Sri Lanka, yet.

The falls are long, with water gushing down in multiple trenches, splitting between the big and heavy rocks. It makes for a ambient background for photos and the 21st century human civilization has gone absolutely berserk in trying to get some shots from weird angles and sometimes even risking their lives.

I am starving and what better than to grab a Bhutta, Challi or Eringu as they call it in Lanka from a nearby street-hawker. The clouds take the lead over the sun as Chamara tell me me that it might start raining anything now.

I ask Chamara if we can make a quick stop at the Secret Waterfall. He nods in agreement. Another off-beat and less visited place. By this time, I have come to realize that Sri Lanka is not just the land of mountains and beaches. It’s the land of Waterfalls too.

Secret Waterfall involves a small hike through a dense jungle. Easy and thrilling. Again, very calm and serene. I have already had a practice session at the Lover’s Leap falls and hence this one doesn’t feel daunting. Only that this time, the journey and the destination are both beautiful.

The Eringu has run it's course and stomach growls are getting louder. But we decide to make one last stop at the Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory.

Tea and Sri Lanka are often spoken in a single sentence, for their relationship has been long-lasting and celebrated across the world. The way to the Uva Tea factory is giving me chills. It starts raining and it looks like a beauty spell has been cast on Ella. Nature in all it's glory. The route is steep but Chamara is going about his business without a sweat.

There is no shortage of food options in Ella. I ask Chamara to drop me at Matey’s Hut. My friend Abhishek had praised this place highly and I was now going to find out. Matey's Hut is famous for authentic Sri Lankan food, at a reasonable price. It stands out among the plethora of Cafe's that light up the Ella Street. It is situated at a secluded corner of an inclined street.

The night is reserved for Cafe Hopping. Tonight it is Ella 360. Their live music attracts me and Dosa on the menu confirms the booking with them.

I plan to hike the Little Adam’s peak next morning. The rains have been heavy since last night and today is no different. I don’t have another day as the beaches are calling. Little Adam’s Peak trek was one of the most anticipated activity of my trip which I have to forego.

It's time to move to the South but there is no direct train connectivity. Bus is a straight no, mainly due to safety and time issues. Thanks to Chamara’s hospitality, I have a cab ready for my next destination.

It is time to bid goodbye to Chamara and meet Shashi, who will be my companion for the journey to my next destination - Unawatuna.

….To be continued in Part 2.

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*Some of the people names have been changed for privacy reasons.

The other cricket grounds are still far from my checked list of places to see in Sri Lanka. As well as the libraries where I can get the rare collection of cricket books.

I love collecting cricket books, reading about the history of the game and visiting cricket stadiums across the world. I believe cricket, culture and community go together and this is my way of connecting with the game.

I somehow manage to sneak in some time before my flight. Colombo is hot and humid. Slightly busy too. But that doesn't deter me from taking a ride to the Sinhalese Sports Club (SSC) cricket ground. I go with the anticipation of seeing the iconic ground which is referred to as the 'Lord's of Sri Lanka' and has hosted landmark matches, such as Sri Lanka's inaugural Test in 1984.

The stadium also has been part of Sri Lanka cricket folklore with Chaminda Vaas claiming a world record by taking 8 wickets for 19 runs against Zimbabwe in an ODI, the best bowling figures in Men's ODI history.

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The Entrance

I am paying my Tuk Tuk driver when I notice a big entrance just adjacent to the stadium entrance that reads "Sri Lanka Cricket Museum". A Museum? When all I want to see is the iconic stadium.

Curiosity takes over. I ask the guard if it is open to visitors when I am punctuated by a person who emerges from the entry gate. He nods in agreement and allows me after paying an entry fee. As I open the gate and take the first step, I feel a shift in energy. The place breathes cricket.

I have been to World Cup games. I have also been to a World Cup Final in Ahmedabad. Being in a stadium with thousand of fans is a pulsating experience. But this, this is different. Both are equally rewarding. But this feels personal.

At the entrance, I am greeted with a timeline of Sri Lanka cricket. This reminds me of all the glorious and defining moments in Sri Lanka’s cricket history. As I move in, the memorabilia, photos and artifacts start weaving their magic. The museum celebrates Sri Lankan cricket in its most purest form.

World Cup (s)

I stand in awe and try to gather my emotions. Is this the Trophy that Ranatunga and his men lifted in 1996? The T20 World Cup 2014 Trophy also stands there in all its glory. The two World Cup victories have contributed immensely towards shaping Sri Lanka cricket.

The museum was opened in 2019. It is thoughtfully designed with prominence given to the hallmark achievements of Sri Lanka Cricket. The two World Cup Trophies take the center stage, obviously.

‘96 Champs’ and T20 Victors’ are the designated sections. They house the winning trophy, tournament jersey, match scorecard, photographs and a framed cricket bat duly signed by the members of squad of the respective tournaments. I am immersed as I move around and have a subtle smile pasted on my face.

I see the scorecards of the World Cup Final (s) which Sri Lanka won. It is nostalgic to revisit them with flashes of visuals appearing in front of my eyes as I walk past them. Though the 2014 one touches a raw nerve.

The picture collage take you down the memory lane. You actually acknowledge how much Sri Lanka cricket has achieved in such a short span of time.

Realizing I am from India, the manager guides me towards the 2002 ICC Champions Trophy . India and Sri Lanka were joint winners and had to share the trophy.

Cheeky.

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Hall of Fame

The Half of Fame Board is a thoughtful addition. While I am going through the Hall of Fame Board, I am amazed by the quality of cricketers Sri Lanka has produced in a short span of time. As of March 2025, a total of 167 players have represented Sri Lanka in Test cricket since they gained Test status in 1981.

The human names etched on this wooden board is a great addition to honour the legacy of Sri Lanka cricket stalwarts. The younger generation have an identity to take inspiration from, inculcating a robust sporting culture in the country.

I am fortunate the museum doesn’t have many visitors. Just one, to be precise. It allows me to read in peace and go through the tiny details. I am also able to document each moment properly.

As fate has it, I am unable to visit the SSC Ground. An ODI Tri-Series between IND-W, SA-W and SL-W is scheduled there and permission isn’t granted, unless I buy the match ticket.

I don’t see the point in that. I fail to visit the other grounds as I have run out of time, most of which was taken up by the museum (no regrets).

I hope to come back soon. There is so much more to see and explore here. And with the T20 world Cup next year scheduled to be held in India and Sri Lanka, it is a good opportunity to experience cricket in this beautiful country.

My belief is stronger than ever. This is a country that loves cricket and its cricketers. As I bid goodbye to Sri Lanka, I hope they will rise and reclaim their lost glory. A new leader would emerge. A new dawn would surface for Sri Lanka cricket. Cricket fans are waiting for it.

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Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka

Timings: 9 am - 5 pm (Monday-Saturday)

Entry Fees - 500 LKR*

They charged me 500/- LKR per person, but charged a local less. There is no official information on the pricing.

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